The Wine Savant: A Guide to the New Wine Culture Read online

  pairing food with, 91, 92

  “skunked,” 57

  upmarket move of, 17

  wine drinking vs. drinking of, 3–4, 12, 15, 17

  Beerenauslese Wine, 133

  beer snobs, 15

  Bellow, Saul, 70

  Billionaire’s Vinegar, The (Wallace), 10

  Biodivin group, 74

  biodynamicsisahoax.com, 73

  biodynamic viticulture, 68–75, 76–77, 102, 138

  certification of, 76–77

  controversy and skepticism about, 69, 73–75

  cosmic aspects of, 70–71

  ideological and cultish aspects of, 69–71, 73–74

  origins of, 69–71

  quality of wines created in, 69, 74–75

  schism in, 74

  use of natural fertilizers and pesticides in, 71, 75

  Blaufränkisch, 153, 159

  Blaufränkisch grape, 8, 159

  blood circulation, 19

  blood clot prevention, 18

  Bloomer Creek Winery, 135

  Blot, Jacky, 137

  Blue Nun Wine, 134

  Blumenthal, Heston, 85

  Bordeaux, 27, 32, 35, 58, 64, 114–16, 118, 123–24, 163

  alcohol levels in, 33

  blind tastings of, 123

  classified-growth, 57

  collecting of, 56

  1855, 45, 123, 124

  fake, 10

  first growths of, 8, 123–24, 162, 168

  loss of interest in, 110–11, 114, 118–19, 170

  prices of, 54, 55, 141, 143

  top-growth, 53

  2005, 47–48

  Bordeaux (Parker), 27

  Bordeaux/Burgundy: A Vintage Rivalry (Pitte), 115

  bottles:

  Bring Your Own (BYO), 89–90

  “corked,” 38, 56–57, 58–59

  cost of, 4, 21–22, 26, 34, 44, 45, 48, 54, 87, 89, 99, 137, 140–50

  empty, 24

  evolution of wine in, 27, 30

  “off,” 38–39, 163

  sealants for, 56–59

  temperature of, 44

  variability of same wine among, 45

  Bouchard Père et Fils, 122

  Boulud, Daniel, 84

  brandy, sugarcane, 169

  Brazil wine market, 8

  brettanomyces, 29

  Brillat-Savarin, Jean Anthelme, 32

  Brinkman, Jeff, 102

  British Press Council, 29

  Broadbent, Michael, 28–29

  Brock University, 40

  Brown, Tina, 29

  Brun, Jean-Paul, 106, 154–55

  Brunello di Montalcino, 35

  Bruno Giacosa Winery, 55

  Bual grape, 169

  Budweiser Beer, 15, 17, 142

  Burgundy, 8, 32, 33, 58, 62, 100, 101, 133, 162, 166

  ascendant popularity of, 110–25

  collecting of, 56, 119–20

  complexity of, 112

  fake, 10

  Gallo Hearty, 22

  grand cru, 48, 57, 83, 111, 115, 122–23, 126, 168

  négociant, 122

  premature oxidation in, 119–21

  premier cru, 22, 57, 111, 115, 122–23

  prices of, 54, 55, 141, 143

  rare, 8, 141, 168

  red, 30, 34, 35, 48, 67, 84, 103

  2005, 47–48, 49

  value, 122–23

  villages, 111, 122

  white, 34, 83, 92, 119–21, 129, 135

  Cabernet Franc, 111

  Cabernet Franc grape, 157, 160–61

  Cabernet Sauvignon, 4, 28, 76, 113

  California, 55, 64, 94, 97–99, 108, 109

  French, 110–11, 113, 127

  Merlot blended with, 111

  Napa, 31, 32, 56, 66, 69, 99, 113, 141

  Ridge Monte Bello, 55, 104

  Stag’s Leap, 1973, 94

  Washington State, 21

  Cabernet Sauvignon grape, 8, 66, 110, 111, 152–53, 160

  Calera Wine, 98, 109

  California, 7–8, 63, 66–67

  Anderson Valley, 102

  Central Coast of, 84, 97, 98, 145–46

  debate over formal classification for wines of, 103–6

  history of viticulture in, 104

  inexpensive wines of, 144

  Mendocino County, 101

  Napa Valley region of, 7, 8, 31, 32, 46, 66, 69, 95, 97–99, 113, 141, 147

  reliable climate of, 95

  Santa Cruz Mountains region of, 96, 97–98, 101–2, 168

  Silicon Valley, 98, 100, 101

  Sonoma Valley region of, 7, 31, 66, 96, 97, 98, 100, 101, 129, 147, 168

  terroir movement in, 98–100, 107–8

  vintages of the 1970s–1980s in, 95

  vintages of the 1990s in, 95–96

  wines of, 31–34, 46, 64, 94–109

  California, University of, at Davis, 66

  Calvinism, 21, 142

  Camille Savès Champagne, 118

  Canary Islands, 8

  cancer, 19

  Carignan, 6

  Carmenere, 6–7

  Carmenere grape, 6–7

  Castilla y León, 156

  Cava, 90

  Cédric Bouchard Champagne, 118

  Chablis, 49, 157

  grand cru, 22

  Chadderdon, Robert, 51

  Chambolle-Musigny, 112

  Champagne, 35, 116–18, 166

  collecting of, 56

  food combinations with, 90, 92

  grapes blended in, 117

  nonvintage, 90

  Champagne flutes, 35

  chaptalization, 77

  Chardonnay, 28, 50, 69, 128–31

  blanc de blancs, 128

  buttery note in, 29, 130, 131

  California, 31, 34, 84, 94, 97–98, 108, 109, 128–31, 157

  Chateau Montelena, 1973, 94, 129

  as a cocktail, 131

  French, 96, 121, 128, 138

  malolactic fermentation of, 29, 130

  pairing food with, 131

  Rhys Horseshoe Vineyard, 131

  Sandhi Sanford & Benedict Vineyard, 131

  Sonoma, 31

  Yellow Tail, 22

  Chardonnay grape, 8, 49, 66, 72, 97, 100, 111, 117, 127, 135, 136, 152, 159, 166

  Charlie Trotter’s, 83

  Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 24, 32–33, 161

  Chave, Jean-Louis, 145, 146

  Chave Hermitage Cuvée Cathelin, Domaine, 1991, 25

  cheese, 18

  Chenin Blanc, 135–38

  Clos du Bourg, 137

  French, 136–38

  Le Haut-Lieu, 137

  Le Mont, 137

  South African, 136

  Chenin Blanc grape, 72, 135–36, 159

  Cheval Blanc, Château, 124, 160

  1947, 25, 162–64, 167

  Chianti, 33, 35

  Chicago, Ill., 17, 85

  Chidaine, François, 137

  Chile:

  earthquake of 2010 in, 6

  Maule region of, 6

  wines of, 6–7

  China:

  rise of, 9

  wine market of, 8

  cholesterol:

  HDL, 18

  LDL, 18–19

  Cinsault, 6

  climate change, 9, 33, 66, 96, 113, 133, 158, 165–66

  Climens, Château, 144

  Clos de la Coulée de Serrant, 71–72

  Clos du Bourg, 137

  Closel, Domaine du, 138

  Clos Naudin, Domaine du, 137

  Clos Ouvert Winery, 6

  Coche-Dury, Domaine J.-F., 25, 120, 125, 138

  cocktail parties, 17

  Columbia University, 72

  Complete Idiot’s Guide to Wine, The (Seldon), 14

  Comtes de Vogüé, Domaine, 125

  Comtes Lafon, Domaine des, 125, 145

  Copain Wines, 100–101, 108, 131

  corks, 56–59

  natural, 57, 58

  popping of, 58

  syntheti
c, 58

  tainted, 38, 56–57, 58–59, 120

  corkscrews, 34, 35–36

  Corsica, 158

  Corton-Charlemagne, 88

  Côte Chalonnaise, 122

  Côte-Rôtie, 33

  Côtes du Rhône, 56–57, 145

  Coulée de Serrant Estate, 71–73, 75, 137–38

  cow manure, 68, 69, 71

  craft beer movement, 17

  criminology, 74

  culture, 17, 41

  beer, 15, 17

  high, 14

  pop, 12–13

  wine, 11, 27, 50

  Curnonsky (Maurice Edmond Sailland), 72

  Cuvée de Silex, 137

  CVNE, 55

  Dan Kravitz/Hand Picked Selections, 51

  Dashe Cellars, 108

  decanters, 34

  Declaration of Independence, 168

  De Maison Selections, 52

  Demeter International, 74

  Democratic Party, 12

  de Villaine, Aubert, 95, 145, 147

  diacetyl, 29

  dinner parties, 17

  diseases:

  chronic pulmonary, 19

  gerontological, 19

  Do Ferreiro Wine, 135

  Domaine Select Wine Estates, 52

  Dominus, 95–96, 108

  Dom Pérignon, 140

  Donkey and Goat, 108

  Dönnhoff Wines, 134, 139

  Draper, Paul, 78, 96, 145

  Dr. Konstantin Frank Wine Cellars, 135

  Dr. Loosen Wine, 134

  Drouhin, 122

  Dujac, Domaine, 124

  DuPont, 39

  Edmunds, Steve, 66

  Egly-Ouriet Champagne, 118

  Eisele Vineyard, 98–99, 104

  El Bulli, 85

  environmentalism, 73

  enzymes, 61

  Epicurean Wines, 51

  Epiré, Domaine d’, 138

  Eric Solomon/European Cellars, 53

  European Union, 156

  Ewing-Mulligan, Mary, 14, 27

  Executive Wine Seminars, 167

  Failla Wines, 108

  Falanghina grape, 153

  Falernian, 159

  Fat Duck, 85

  Fiano grape, 153

  Fields, W. C., 34

  flavonoids, 18

  flavor, 73

  aftertaste of, 30–31

  of alcohol, 39–40

  from barrels, 61–65

  chemistry of, 29, 38–41

  concentration and complexity of, 22–23, 103, 133

  crescendo of, 23

  fruit, 5, 23–24, 30, 33, 99

  length and finish of, 23, 103

  manipulation of, 68, 75–78, 79

  metaphors for, 6, 15, 16–17, 27, 28, 30, 63

  nose and perception of, 41

  oak, 61–66, 96, 99, 129–30

  Old vs. New World, 33–34

  perception vs. preference in, 41

  receiving stimuli of, 41

  spoiled, 38–40

  see also taste

  foie gras, 18

  Fonseca, 56

  food:

  Asian, 91–93

  beer and, 91, 92

  Chinese, 92

  eclectic menus of, 85–87

  French paradox and, 18

  Indian, 91–92

  Japanese, 92

  Korean, 92

  pairing wine with, 4, 7, 67–68, 81–93, 131

  spicy, 91–92

  Thai, 92

  Vietnamese, 923

  food critics, 86

  Foreau, Philippe, 137

  Fouquet, Bernard, 137

  Fourrier, Domaine, 124

  Fox, Arthur L., 39

  Fox Searchlight, 3

  France, 26–27, 103

  Alsace region of, 32, 49, 69, 132, 139

  Anjou appellation in, 160

  appellation system in, 103–6

  Bandol, 161

  Beaujolais region of, 77, 106, 154–55

  Bordeaux region of, 7, 8, 27, 28, 45–48, 50, 63, 65, 79, 95, 100, 103, 104, 110–12, 114–19, 123–24, 129, 144, 160, 163–64

  Bourgueil appellation in, 160

  Burgundy region of, 8, 33, 45, 47–48, 49, 50, 64, 67, 69, 84, 95, 96, 100, 103–5, 107, 110–26, 128, 147, 164, 165

  Chablis region of, 49

  Champagne region of, 8, 52, 69, 116–18, 128, 164, 166

  Chinon appellation in, 160

  Côte d’Or, 121

  Languedoc region of, 51

  Loire Valley region of, 9, 32, 71–72, 92, 106, 107, 136, 137, 160, 165

  Middle Ages in, 107

  Montlouis appellation in, 137

  national diet of, 18

  Provence, 24

  Rhône Valley region of, 46, 50, 65, 69, 100, 112, 145, 161, 164

  Saumur-Champigny appellation in, 160

  sommeliers in, 82–83

  Vouvray appellation in, 136–37

  wine consumption in U.S. vs. that in, 4

  wine importers of, 51–52, 53

  wines of, 4, 14, 24, 25, 32–33, 46, 47–50, 94–95, 170–73

  Franco, Francisco, 155

  François Raveneau Chablis Les Clos, Domaine (Burgundy), 138

  French Paradox, 18

  French Revolution, 121

  Freud, Sigmund, 60–61

  Friedrich, Jacqueline, 137

  Fritz Haag Estate, 134

  F.X. Pichler Winery, 139

  Galivan Mountains, 98

  Gallo Winery, 22, 146

  Gallup poll, 4

  garrigue, 24

  Gatinois Champagne, 118

  Geneva, 163

  Georges Roumier, Domaine, 125

  German Wine Law of 1971, 133

  Germany, 70

  Mosel Valley region of, 8, 135, 166

  wine importers of, 52, 134

  wines of, 56, 91, 92, 132–35, 139, 165–66

  Gerry Dawes Selections—the Spanish Artisan Wine Group, 52

  Geyserville Vineyard, 96

  Giacomo Conterno Winery, 55

  Giamatti, Paul, 3

  Gironde River, 111

  Giuseppe Mascarello, 55

  Gladwell, Malcolm, 26

  glass stoppers, 58

  globalization, 5, 8, 9, 152–54

  global warming, 133

  Godello grape, 152, 156, 157, 159

  Goode, Jamie, 40

  grandes marques, 116–18

  Grand-Puy-Lacoste, 22

  grapes, 32, 74, 75, 81, 151–61

  Aglianico, 8, 152, 153, 159–60

  Albariño, 8, 135, 152, 156, 157, 159

  Aligoté, 111

  Arneis, 153

  Assyrtiko, 158

  Barbera, 160

  Blaufränkisch, 8, 159

  blending of, 117, 157, 169

  Bual, 169

  buying and selling of, 116, 117

  Cabernet Franc, 157, 160–61

  Cabernet Sauvignon, 8, 66, 110, 111, 152–53, 160

  Carmenere, 6–7

  Chardonnay, 8, 49, 66, 72, 97, 100, 111, 117, 127, 135, 136, 152, 159, 166

  Chenin Blanc, 72, 135–36, 159

  Falanghina, 153

  fashionable, 99

  fermented juice of, 10, 13, 32, 60, 65, 102, 130, 132–33

  Fiano, 153

  Godello, 152, 156, 157, 159

  Grenache, 65

  Grüner Veltliner, 8, 135

  harvesting of, 68, 101, 133

  Hondarrabi Zuri, 156

  influence of vineyard reflected in, 23, 96

  labeling by variety of, 49, 50

  Lagrein, 8, 160

  Malmsey, 169

  malolactic fermentation of, 29, 130

  Malvasia, 169

  Mataró, 161

  matching soil with, 104, 107

  Mencia, 157–58

  Merlot, 66, 111, 152–53, 160

  Mourvèdre, 161

  Nebbiolo, 63, 160

  Negroamaro, 153

  Nero d’Avola, 153

  ob
scure, 8

  País, 6

  pest attacks on, 7, 153–55

  Pinot Meunier, 117

  Pinot Noir, 8, 67, 97, 99, 100, 101, 103, 110–11, 117, 121, 136, 166

  polyphenols in, 18–20

  Prädikat scale of, 133, 165

  premium, 66

  Rhône, 145

  Ribolla Gialla, 152

  Riesling, 8, 131–32, 134–35, 136, 150

  ripening of, 102, 133, 164, 166

  rotting of, 49

  Sangiovese, 160

  Sauvignon Blanc, 127–28, 135, 136, 152–53, 157

  Sercial, 169

  stemware specific to, 34, 35

  sugar in, 65, 66, 133

  Syrah, 8, 100, 152

  Terrantez, 169

  Treixadura, 151

  Verdejo, 8, 156, 157

  Vermentino, 158

  volatile organic compounds in, 29

  white, 111, 135, 158

  Zinfandel, 65

  Grapes of Spain, 53

  Great Wine Swindle, The (Gluck), 14

  Greece:

  ancient, 82, 159

  wines of, 9, 158

  Grenache, 108, 127, 146

  Grenache Blanc, 108

  Grenache grape, 65

  Grgich, Mike, 129

  Grieco, Paul, 131

  “grower Champagne” movement, 117–18

  Grüner Veltliner, 35, 159

  Grüner Veltliner grape, 8, 135

  Guthrie, Wells, 100–101

  Guy Roulot, Domaine, 125

  Guy Roulot Meursault-Perrieres, Domaine (Burgundy), 138

  Haas, Robert, 51

  Hamacher, Eric, 84

  Hanzell Vineyards, 109, 129–30, 131

  Harvey, Kevin, 100, 101–2

  Haut-Brion, Château, 50, 94, 123, 124

  1945, 124

  1959, 25

  1961, 25, 162

  1989, 25, 90

  Heitz Martha’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, 1974, 25, 162

  Hemingway, Ernest, 54

  Henri Billiot Champagne, 118

  Henriot Champagne, 25

  Henry, Patrick, 14

  Hermann J. Wiemer Winery, 135

  Hermitage, 25, 105, 145

  Hollywood, Calif., 82

  Home Vineyard, 102

  Hondarrabi Zuri grape, 156

  Hong Kong, 8

  Horseshoe Vineyard, 131

  How to Love Wine (Asimov), 14–15

  Huet, Domaine, 136–37

  hydrogen peroxide, 120

  Indian wine market, 8

  In Pursuit of Balance, 84

  International Pinot Noir Celebration (IPNC), 168

  Italy:

  Alto-Adige region in, 160

  Campania in, 159–60

  Piedmont region of, 48, 55, 63, 85, 160, 166

  wine importers of, 52

  wines of, 4, 33, 35, 48, 49, 55, 90, 153, 159–60

  Jacques Lassaigne Champagne, 118

  Jacques Selosse Champagne, 118, 138

  Jefferson, Thomas, 168

  French food and wine favored by, 14

  Jenny & François Selections, 51

  Jensen, Josh, 96–98

  J.-F. Coche-Dury Corton ­Charlemagne, Domaine, 138

  1996, 25

  J. J. Christoffel Wine, 134

  J. J. Prüm Estate, 134, 139

  Johnnes, Daniel, 83–84, 167–68

  Joly, Nicolas, 71–73, 138

  Jon-David Headrick Selections, 52