The Wine Savant: A Guide to the New Wine Culture Read online

  Jordan, Ehren, 146–47

  Jorge Ordóñez, 52

  José Pastor Selections, 52

  Joseph Phelps Vineyards, 69, 98

  Judgment of Paris (1976), 14, 94–95, 96, 97, 100, 108

  Kabinett, 133, 165–66

  Kafka, Franz, 70

  Keller Wines, 139

  Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, 51

  Keynes, John Maynard, 90

  Kramer, Matt, 9, 15–16, 27, 38, 107

  Krankl, Manfred, 145–46

  Krug Champagne Clos du Mesnil, 25, 138

  Kurniawan, Rudy, 10

  Kutch, Jamie, 100

  Kutch Wines, 108

  Kysela Père et Fils, 53

  labels, 6, 116

  California Grand Cru on, 103–4

  grape varieties on, 49, 50

  place of origin on, 49, 50, 155

  regulation and custom pertaining to, 49–50, 65

  switching of, 13

  lactic acid, 130

  Lafite, Château, 123

  1982, 124

  Lafite-Rothschild, Château, 111

  Asian market for, 8

  fake, 10

  Lafleur, Château, 124

  1947, 164

  1982, 25

  Lafon, Dominique, 126, 145, 146–47

  Lafon Meursault-Perrieres, Domaine (Burgundy), 138

  Lagrein grape, 8, 160

  La Paulée de New York, 84, 167–68

  Lapierre, Marcel, 6, 78

  La Rioja Alta, 55

  Larmandier-Bernier Champagne, 118

  Latour, Château, 123

  gran vin of, 54

  1961, 124

  Laureau, Damien, 138

  Lebowitz, Fran, 61

  L’Eglise-Clinet, 1947, 164

  Leflaive, Domaine, 69, 120, 125

  Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet, Domaine (Burgundy), 138

  Lehman Brothers, 141

  Leonardo LoCascio/Winebow, 52

  Leroy, Domaine, 69, 124

  L’Évangile, 1947, 164

  Lewin, Benjamin, 114

  Liebfraumilch, Blue Nun, 134

  Lioco Winery, 108

  liquor:

  sales regulation of, 43–44

  wine drinking vs. drinking of, 3–4

  lobster, 90

  Loire River, 71

  London, 8, 85

  Loosen, Erni, 145

  López de Heredia, 17, 55

  Riojas, 17

  Rosé, 17

  Los Angeles Times, 45–46

  Louis/Dressner Selections, 52

  Louis Roederer, 69

  lungs, 19

  Luyt, Louis-Antoine, 6

  Lynch, Kermit, 26–27, 51

  Mackay, Jordan, 84

  Mâcon, 122, 146

  Mâcon-Lugny, 50

  Macon-Villages, 88

  Madeira, 5, 56, 168–70

  decline of, 169

  fortification of, 168–69

  Mahle, Pax, 98

  Maison Louis Jadot, 116, 122

  Maison Louis Latour, 116

  Malmsey grape, 169

  Malvasia grape, 169

  Marc de Grazia Selections, 52

  Margaux, Château, 123

  2000, 124

  Marqués de Murietta, 55

  Marqués de Riscal, 55

  Marquis d’Angerville, Domaine, 116, 125

  Martine’s Wines, 52

  Martin Ray Winery, 97

  Master Sommelier exam, 82

  Mataró grape, 161

  Matt Kramer on Wine (Kramer), 27

  Mayacamas Vineyards, 55, 108, 131

  McCarthy, Ed, 27

  Mencia, 13

  Mencia grape, 157–58

  Merlot, 4

  backlash against, 128

  Cabernet Sauvignon blended with, 111

  California, 64, 66

  French, 111, 127, 128

  Merlot grape, 66, 111, 152–53, 160

  Meursault, 84

  Meyers, Duncan Arnot, 98

  Michael Skurnik Wines, 53

  Michel Chapoutier, 69

  Michel Lafarge, Domaine, 125

  Mina, Michael, 84

  Mission Haut-Brion, Château La, 124

  1961, 25

  Moët & Chandon Champagne, 116–17

  Mollydooker, 61

  Mondavi, Robert, 66

  Mondavi, Tim, 66

  Mondavi Reserve, 96

  Monika Caha Selections, 51

  Monte Bello, Ridge, 55, 95–96, 104

  Montelena, Chateau, 55, 95–96, 104, 108, 131

  Chardonnay, 1973, 94, 129–30

  Monterey, Calif., 98

  Montille, Domaine de, 125

  Montrachet, 35, 83, 104

  Montrachet restaurant, 83

  Morgon, 78

  Moueix, Christian, 145

  Mount Eden Vineyards, 98, 131

  Mourvèdre grape, 161

  Mouton Rothschild, 94

  1945, 44

  Mouton Rothschild, Château, 123

  1947, 164

  1973, 124

  1982, 25, 162

  Mugnier, Domaine, 48, 125

  Musigny 2005, 48

  Mugnier, Frédéric, 84

  Muscadet, 13, 157

  Musigny Vineyard, 126

  Nalle Winery, 109

  natural wine movement, 75–80

  Nebbiolo grape, 63, 160

  Negroamaro grape, 153

  Neil Empson Selections, 52

  Nero d’Avola grape, 153

  New Age philosophy, 73

  New York, N.Y., 8, 72, 78, 83–84, 135

  wine drinking in, 4, 153, 156

  New York Finger Lakes region, 135

  New York Times, 14, 19

  New Zealand, 57

  wines of, 9, 33, 34, 103, 112

  Nieporent, Drew, 83

  oak, 62–65

  American, 64

  bark of, 68

  chips of, 64, 76

  flavor of, 62–65, 66, 96, 99, 129–30

  French, 63, 64, 129–30

  Limousin, 129

  new, 6, 61, 62–66, 99, 102, 107

  Slovenian, 63

  oenology, 40

  oenophilia, 4, 7, 8, 37

  accessibility of, 9

  American, 5

  defense of, 7, 12–20

  exploring the culture of, 11

  pleasures of, 31–32

  stereotypes of, 3

  wine snobbery vs., 13–15

  oenophobia, 4

  Official Guide to Wine Snobbery, The (Bernstein), 14

  Old Bridge Cellars, 51

  Olé Imports, 53

  Oregon, 168

  wines of, 9, 33, 35, 103, 112

  Outliers (Gladwell), 26

  País grape, 6

  palates, 37, 61, 79

  cleansing of, 67, 91

  evolution of, 62

  fickleness of, 45

  German, 133

  sensitive, 39

  superior, 39

  Western, 91

  Paris, 26, 49, 85, 94–95, 115, 117

  Intercontinental Hotel in, 94

  wine drinking in, 4

  Parker, Robert, 14, 16, 27, 28, 42–43, 45–47, 54, 69, 113, 134, 140

  influence of, 43, 66–67, 96, 99, 112, 147

  as polarizing figure, 61, 62, 64–65, 112

  ratings by, 100, 112, 145

  Parr, Rajat, 84–85, 100

  Pastor, José, 52, 151–52

  Paul Masson Winery, 97

  Pedralonga Wine, 135

  Petit Verdot, 111

  Pétrus, Château, 124, 145

  1947, 164

  1982, 53–54

  1989, 25

  Peynaud, Émile, 79

  Phelps Insignia, 95–96

  phenylthiocarbamide (PTC), 39–41

  phylloxera root louse, 7, 153–55

  Pickering, Gary, 40

  Pierre Gimonnet Champagne, 118

  Pierre Moncuit Champagne, 118

  Pierre Peters Champagne,
118

  Pierre-Yves Colin Morey, Domaine, 125

  Pinon, François, 137

  Pinot Meunier grape, 117

  Pinot Noir, 4, 21, 24, 68, 100, 132

  best qualities in, 102

  California, 22, 33, 67, 84, 97–98, 102, 108, 109, 112, 146

  French, 67, 96, 110, 112–13, 127, 128

  high-alcohol, 67

  New Zealand, 33, 34, 103, 112

  Oregon, 33, 35, 84, 103, 112

  popularity of, 110, 112–13

  Sonoma, 22

  Pinot Noir grape, 8, 67, 97, 99, 100, 101, 103, 110–11, 117, 121, 136, 166

  Pithon, Jo, 138

  Pitte, Jean-Robert, 115

  Poland, 70

  Polaner Selections, 53

  Ponsot, Domaine, 125

  Port, 92

  vintage, 25, 55–56

  Portugal, 9

  Douro region of, 8

  Madeira Island, 168–69

  preservatives, 76

  Prohibition, 129, 169

  repeal of, 43

  propylthiouracil (PROP), 39–41

  Prosecco, 90

  Quinta do Noval Vintage Port Nacional, 1963, 25

  radiation poisoning, 19

  Ramonet Montrachet, 1986, 57

  Raveneau, Domaine (Chablis), 125

  Ravines Winery, 135

  Recession, Great, 4, 21, 99, 113, 141

  red wines, 30, 34, 38–39

  acidity of, 56

  aging of, 56

  Australian, 32

  California, 32, 94–95

  color in, 39

  flavinoids in, 18

  French, 32–33, 48, 67, 111, 113, 126–27

  great vintages of, 56

  health benefits of, 18–20

  Italian, 33, 35, 55

  pairing food and, 91, 92

  resveratrol in, 18–20

  Spanish, 152

  stemware for, 35

  restaurants, 81–93, 132

  BYO bottles in, 89–90

  chefs in, 81–84, 85–86

  corkage fees in, 89

  eclectic cooking trends in, 85–87

  French, 133

  high-end, 85

  ordering wine in, 36, 81–89, 90–93

  rejecting wine in, 59, 89

  tasting menus in, 86–87

  tips for a happy wine experience in, 87–89

  see also sommeliers; wine lists

  resveratrol, health benefits of, 18–20

  reverse osmosis machines, 77, 140

  Rhône, 56

  Rhône grape, 145

  Rhys Vineyards, 97, 101–3, 108, 131

  Ribolla Gialla grape, 152

  Richaud, Marcel, 106

  Ridge Vineyards, 95–96, 98, 108, 131, 145, 168

  Sonoma County Three Valleys Zinfandel, 145

  Riedel family, 35

  Riesling, 131–36, 145, 159

  acidity in, 133

  alcohol levels in, 133

  Alsatian, 92, 132, 139

  American, 108, 109, 134–35

  Austrian, 134, 135, 139

  California, 108, 109, 134

  dry, 5, 132, 133–34, 139

  Finger Lakes, 135

  German, 56, 91, 92, 132–34, 135, 139, 165–66

  off-dry, 92, 134

  popularity of, 131–32, 134

  traditional sweet, fruity, 5, 91, 132–34

  Riesling grape, 8, 131–32, 134–35, 136, 150

  Rieussec, Château, 144

  Riojas, 33, 155

  aging of, 64

  classical, 5, 17, 64

  López de Heredia, 17

  old vintages of, 55

  RN74 restaurant, 84

  Robert Kacher Selections, 51

  Robert Mondavi Winery, 66

  Roberts, Nathan Lee, 98

  Robinson, Jancis, 27, 112–13

  rodent control, 71

  Rolland, Michel, 99

  Romanée-Conti, Domaine de la, 10, 54, 64, 69, 95, 116, 121–22, 124, 140, 145, 147

  grand cru reds of, 121

  Montrachet, 121

  vineyards of, 121

  Romanée-Conti La Tâche, Domaine de la, 121

  1971, 25

  1990, 25, 162

  Romanée-Conti Le Montrachet, Domaine de la (Burgundy), 138

  Romans, ancient, 82, 159

  Rosé, López de Heredia, 17

  Rosenthal Wine Merchant, 52

  Rothschild, Baron Philippe de, 124

  Roy Cloud/Vintage ’59 Imports, 52

  Rudi Wiest Selections, 52, 134

  Rukeyser, Louis, 54

  Russian Revolution, 169

  Russian wine market, 8

  Salon (Champagne), 138

  Samuel Goldwyn Films, 82

  San Andreas Fault, 102

  Sandhi Wines, 84, 108, 131

  Sanford & Benedict Vineyard, 131

  San Francisco, Calif., 84, 97, 98, 100, 167

  wine drinking in, 4, 135, 156

  Sangiovese grape, 160

  San Sebastián, 156

  Santa Barbara International Film Festival of 2013, 82

  Santa Cruz Mountains, 96, 97–98, 101–2, 168

  Sardinia, 158

  Sauternes, 91–92, 144

  Sauvignon Blanc, 127–28

  Sauvignon Blanc grape, 127–28, 135, 136, 152–53, 157

  Savennières, 71–72, 73, 137–38

  Savio Soares Selections, 52

  Schäfer-Fröhlich Wine, 139

  Schildknecht, David, 134

  Science of Wines, The (Goode), 40

  screw caps, 57–58

  Sea Smoke Cellars, 103–4

  Seattle, Wash., 84

  Secrets of the Sommeliers (Parr and Mackay), 84

  Sercial grape, 169

  sex, erectile function and, 19

  Shanghai, 8

  Shaw, David, 45–46

  Shenzhen, 8

  Sherry, 5, 38, 56, 119

  Shiraz, 37, 91, 141

  Sicily, 51

  Sideways (film), 3–4, 97, 136

  Silesia, 70, 72

  Sine Qua Non Winery, 145–46

  60 Minutes, 18

  Slate, 11, 127–28, 141, 142, 145, 163

  Smith, Barry, 37–38

  Smith, Douglass, 73–74

  Smith, Stu, 73, 75

  Smith-Vadrone Vineyards, 109

  soil, 107

  chalky, 166

  limestone-rich, 96–98, 103

  matching grapes with, 104

  mineral-rich, 135

  qualities derived from, 102

  shallow, weathered, 101–2

  Somm (film), 82

  sommeliers, 33, 61, 81–89, 131, 135

  American, 83–84

  bad attitudes of, 88

  ceremony and élan of, 82

  dealing with, 88–89

  French, 82–83

  offering a taste to, 88

  prominence of, 81–85

  role of, 82–83, 86–87, 88

  as tastemakers, 81, 101

  South African wines, 136

  South American wines, 6–7

  Spain, 85, 135, 161

  Basque country in, 156

  Bierzo region of, 157

  Galicia region of, 51, 153–54, 156

  Rías Baixas appellation in, 156

  Ribeira Sacra region of, 157

  Ribera del Duero region of, 152

  Rioja region of, 64, 152

  Rueda appellation in, 156

  Valdeorras appellation in, 156, 157, 159

  wine importers of, 52–53, 151–52

  wines of, 4, 9, 49, 64, 74, 90, 151–58

  sparkling wines, 35, 128, 135, 137, 166

  American, 90

  food combination with, 90

  see also Champagne

  Spätlese, 133, 166

  Spiegelau stemware, 35

  spinning cones, 77

  Spottswoode Estate Vineyard and Winery, 95–96

  Spurrier, Steve, 94

  Stag
’s Leap Wine Cellars, 94

  Steiner, Rudolf, 69–71, 72–73, 74, 75

  homeopathic preparations of, 71, 74

  see also biodynamic viticulture

  steroids, 79

  Stone, Larry, 83

  Stony Hill Vineyard, 108, 131

  sulfur dioxide (SO2), 76, 77, 78, 120

  Summer of Riesling, 131–32

  sushi, 90, 92

  Sydney, 153

  Syrah, 67, 76, 127

  California, 97–98, 100, 108, 146

  Syrah grape, 8, 100, 152

  Taber, George, 129

  Taille aux Loups, Domaine de la, 137

  Taittinger Champagne, 116–17, 138

  tannins, 23, 31, 56, 64, 76, 160

  TAS2R38 gene, 40–41

  taste, 60, 76, 99

  bitter, 39–41

  five basic sensations of, 40

  harmony and balance of, 23, 30

  “hollow midplate,” 22

  individuality of, 37, 45

  “peacock’s tail,” 23

  salty, 40, 41

  savory (umami), 40, 41

  sour, 40, 41

  sweet, 40, 41

  see also flavor; wine tasters; wine tastings

  tasting notes, 24, 27–31

  “professional,” 29, 31

  purpose of, 30

  Tasting Pleasures (Robinson), 27

  Tatler, 29

  taverns, 15

  Taylor Wines, 56

  tectonic plates, 102

  Terrantez, 1795, 169

  Terrantez grape, 169

  Terres Dorées, Domaine des, 2007 Beaujolais l’Ancien, 154–55

  terroir concept, 18, 23, 50, 60, 67, 68, 96, 98–100, 102, 107–8, 114–15, 117–18, 121

  Terry Theise Estate Selections, 52, 134

  Theise, Terry, 51, 52, 134

  Thévenet, Jean, 106

  Time, 129

  Tokyo, 85

  tongues, 40–41

  circumvallate papillae on, 40

  foliate papillae on, 40

  fungiform papillae on, 39, 40

  taste buds of, 39

  Treixadura grape, 151

  Trimbach Winery, 132

  Riesling Clos Ste. Hune of, 25, 132, 139

  Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile of, 132, 139

  Trockenbeerenauslese Wine, 133

  Trousseau, 153

  Turley, Helen, 99

  Twitter, 61, 84

  2, 4, 6–trichloroanisole (TCA), 56

  Txakoli, 153, 156

  Tyler Winery, 108, 131

  Ulysse Collin Champagne, 118

  United States:

  ascendancy of confident and sophisticated wine drinking in, 4–5, 12–14, 16–18, 43–44, 50–51, 62, 82, 143

  beer and liquor vs. wine drinkers in, 3–4, 12, 15

  campaign finance system in, 44

  importing wines to, 50–51

  pop culture in, 12–13

  professional wine service in, 83–85

  Prohibition and Repeal in, 43, 129, 169

  regulatory alcohol law in, 43–44, 65

  social mobility in, 105

  wine consumption statistics in, 4

  Valencia, 151

  Valhalla, 55

  Vanity Fair, 10

  Vega Sicilia Winery, 155

  Verdejo grape, 8, 156, 157

  Vermentino grape, 158

  Veuve Clicquot Champagne, 116–17

  Viagra, 19

  Vias Imports, 52

  Vienna, 69

  Vieux Château Certan, 1947, 164